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Build a 70cm Flower Pot Antenna

The flower pot antenna — a coaxial dipole with a sleeve balun, named for its appearance when built in a white PVC pipe — is one of the most effective and discreet UHF base station antennas a home operator can build. Designed by VK2ZOI (Fred Nachbaur, SK) for the 2m band and widely adopted for 70cm, the flower pot achieves 3–4 dBd gain from a coaxial construction that requires no external radiating elements — the antenna is entirely hidden inside its white PVC housing, indistinguishable from a plumbing pipe or fence post. At 70cm the complete antenna is under 18 inches tall, weighs a few hundred grams, and costs under $15 in materials. This guide covers coaxial dipole theory, the sleeve balun operating principle, exact dimensions for 432–440 MHz, step-by-step construction from RG-58 coax and PVC pipe, and SWR verification for a permanently mounted installation.

3–4 dBdGain over dipole
18 inchesTotal antenna height
Hidden designInside PVC — fully concealed
<$15Total materials cost

The Coaxial Dipole — What Is It?

The flower pot is fundamentally a coaxial dipole — a half-wave dipole where one element is formed by the coax inner conductor and the other by the outer surface of the coax shield. The critical innovation is the sleeve balun (also called a choke balun or bazooka balun) that forces the antenna current to flow on the correct surfaces rather than running down the feedline:

Coaxial dipole structure: Upper half (inner conductor element): The coax inner conductor extends λ/4 above the top of the sleeve balun section. This is the upper radiating element. Lower half (outer conductor element): The outer surface of the coax shield for λ/4 below the sleeve balun top acts as the lower radiating element. The sleeve balun prevents antenna current from continuing further down the coax. Sleeve balun (choke section): A short-circuit stub formed by the coax and a metal sleeve around it, λ/4 long. Presents very high impedance to common-mode current at the operating frequency. Forces the antenna current to remain in the coaxial dipole structure rather than flowing down the feedline to the shack. In the flower pot design (VK2ZOI): The outer conductor of the coax IS the sleeve — a section of the coax braid is stripped of its outer jacket and serves as both the lower radiating element and the sleeve balun. No separate metal sleeve is needed — the construction is elegant and entirely coaxial.

Why the Flower Pot Achieves Gain

A simple half-wave dipole provides 0 dBd gain (it IS the reference). The flower pot achieves 3–4 dBd gain through a combination of two effects that distinguish it from a simple dipole:

Gain mechanism: 1. END-FED CONFIGURATION: The coaxial dipole is effectively end-fed — the feedpoint is at the bottom of the antenna structure, not at the centre of the dipole. The sleeve balun creates an electrical discontinuity that moves the effective feedpoint. This end-feeding produces a current distribution that is slightly different from a centre-fed dipole — more current in the lower half, which at heights above a quarter-wave produces a lower radiation angle. 2. GROUND INTERACTION: When mounted at height above ground, the coaxial dipole's asymmetric current distribution interacts with ground reflections differently than a centre-fed dipole. The result: lower effective radiation angle at typical installation heights, concentrating more energy toward the horizon. 3. PATTERN COMPRESSION: The combination of the above effects produces a radiation pattern with: - Maximum radiation at ~8-12° elevation - Less radiation at high angles vs. dipole - This compression gives ~3-4 dBd apparent gain Measured gain on 70cm (435 MHz): Typically 3.0–3.8 dBd over a dipole at same height (slightly more than a Slim Jim due to the coaxial structure's different current distribution)

Dimensions — Velocity Factor is Everything

The flower pot's dimensions are set by the velocity factor of the coaxial cable used. All electrical lengths must be calculated using the actual VF of your specific coax — using the wrong VF produces an antenna resonant at the wrong frequency:

Flower pot dimensions for 435 MHz using RG-58: RG-58 velocity factor: VF = 0.66 Free-space wavelength at 435 MHz: λ = 300/435 = 0.690 m = 27.2 inches All electrical lengths in coax: λ in RG-58 = 27.2 × 0.66 = 17.95 inches Section lengths: Upper radiator (inner conductor exposed): λ/4 = 27.2/4 = 6.8 inches (in FREE SPACE — bare wire) Note: the upper element is BARE WIRE/CONDUCTOR not inside coax — use FREE SPACE VF = 1.00 Upper element = 6.8 inches (free space) Lower radiator (coax braid, stripped of jacket): = λ/4 in coax = 17.95/4 = 4.49 inches Sleeve balun (remaining coax below lower radiator): = λ/4 in coax = 4.49 inches Shorted at its lower end to close the choke. Total coax used: lower radiator + balun section = 4.49 + 4.49 = 8.98 inches of coax Plus upper element: 6.8 inches of bare conductor Total antenna height: ~16 inches (before housing)

Flower Pot vs Slim Jim vs J-Pole — Choosing

All three are excellent 70cm base station antennas in the same gain range. The practical differences guide the choice:

  • Flower pot: fully concealed inside PVC — the best choice for HOA-restricted installations, apartment buildings, rental properties, or any location where antenna visibility is a concern. The white PVC pipe is indistinguishable from a plumbing vent. Slightly more complex to build than the Slim Jim but uses readily available RG-58 coax rather than TV twin-lead.
  • Slim Jim: built from 300 Ω TV twin-lead — cheaper and faster to build than the flower pot. Equally effective. Less stealthy (the twin-lead wires are visible through most PVC housing). Better choice when the goal is lowest cost and fastest build time.
  • J-pole: most mechanically robust when built from copper pipe. Better suited to high-power operation. Slightly more complex tuning than the Slim Jim or flower pot. Less common on 70cm because the small copper pipe dimensions are harder to work with precisely.
  • All three produce similar performance: the differences in gain are under 1 dB between any two of these designs. Choose based on construction preference and installation requirements, not marginal performance differences.
Section Length (inches) Length (mm) Material Notes
Upper radiating element6.80173Bare copper wire or coax inner conductorFree-space λ/4; no coax jacket — bare conductor only
Lower radiating element4.49114RG-58 coax outer braid (jacket stripped)Coax λ/4; jacket removed, braid exposed
Sleeve balun section4.49114RG-58 coax (jacket on)Coax λ/4; shorted at bottom by soldering braid to bottom fitting
Total coax length needed8.98228RG-58Lower radiator + balun; buy 12 inches for margin
Total antenna height~15.8~400Upper element + coax sections; PVC housing adds 2 inches
PVC housing length18.04573/4-inch or 1-inch PVC pipe2 inches clearance above and below antenna structure
Junction between elementsAt 6.80 inches from topAt 173mm from topSolder junctionInner conductor of coax soldered to base of upper element wire

Materials for a 70cm flower pot antenna for 432–440 MHz

🔌RG-58 coax, 15 inchesFor lower radiating element and sleeve balun sections; VF must be 0.66 — verify on coax spool label; buy 18 inches for margin
📡#14 AWG solid copper wire or brass rod, 8 inchesUpper radiating element; bare conductor — no insulation; must be rigid enough to stay straight inside the PVC
🔌SO-239 chassis connector (panel mount)Feedpoint connector at base of PVC housing; coaxial feedline connects here; use SO-239 for PL-259 compatibility or N-type for lower loss
🔌RG-58 or LMR-400 coax, mast run lengthFeedline from SO-239 at base of housing to shack; RG-58 adequate for runs under 25 ft; LMR-400 for longer runs
🏗️3/4-inch or 1-inch PVC pipe, 20 inchesOuter housing; larger diameter reduces dielectric loading effect on antenna; 1-inch preferred if available
🔩PVC end caps, 2 piecesTop (sealed) and bottom (SO-239 mount); cement top cap; drill SO-239 hole in bottom cap
🔩Short stainless steel bolt and nut, M4 or #6-32For closing the sleeve balun short circuit at bottom of balun section
🪛Solder, rosin-core flux, self-amalgamating tapeFor all connections; weatherproofing SO-239 connector
🔧Vernier caliper or accurate rulerFor measuring coax section lengths to ±1mm; accuracy is important for correct resonance
📻NanoVNAFor SWR verification at 435 MHz; confirms correct construction before sealing in housing

Building the 70cm Flower Pot

The flower pot is built from the top down — upper element first, then the coax assembly below it. Precision in the coax section lengths is important: at 435 MHz, 5mm of coax length difference shifts resonance by approximately 3 MHz. Measure each coax section with a caliper before cutting. Build and test before installing in the PVC housing.

1

Verify Your Coax Velocity Factor

Before cutting any coax, verify the velocity factor of your specific RG-58. Different brands of RG-58 have VF ranging from 0.65 to 0.67. A 0.01 VF difference produces a 3–4 MHz resonance shift at 70cm — worth measuring rather than assuming.

The simplest VF measurement uses the NanoVNA: cut a 20-cm piece of coax, short one end with a piece of wire, and connect the NanoVNA to the other end. Sweep until you find the frequency where the shorted stub shows minimum impedance (series resonance). At this frequency, the stub is exactly λ/4 long: VF = (4 × stub_length_m × f_resonance_Hz) / 3×10⁸. If your measurement gives VF between 0.65–0.67, use 0.66 for calculations. If outside this range, recalculate all section lengths using your measured VF before cutting.

VF measurement quick method: Cut 20cm RG-58 test section. Short far end with a wire jumper. Connect NanoVNA to near end. Sweep 300–500 MHz. Find frequency of impedance minimum (series resonance). VF = (4 × 0.20 m × f_resonance) / (3 × 10⁸ m/s) Example: minimum at 375 MHz VF = (4 × 0.20 × 375×10⁶) / (3×10⁸) = 300×10⁶ / (3×10⁸) = 1.00 → something wrong Correct example: minimum at 247 MHz VF = (4 × 0.20 × 247×10⁶) / (3×10⁸) = 197.6×10⁶ / (3×10⁸) = 0.659 ≈ 0.66 ✓
2

Cut the Upper Radiating Element

Cut the upper radiating element from #14 AWG solid copper wire or a brass rod. This element is 6.80 inches (173mm) long — this is a free-space quarter-wave length because the upper element is bare conductor, not inside coax. Straighten the wire completely — any bend or kink changes the effective electrical length slightly. File both ends clean and square:

Upper element calculation verification: λ/4 at 435 MHz (free space): = (300 / 435) / 4 metres = 0.690 / 4 = 0.1724 m = 6.80 inches ✓ This element is NOT shortened by any VF correction because it radiates in AIR, not inside a cable. The free-space VF of 1.00 applies. Material options: #14 AWG solid copper wire: easiest to obtain; slightly flexible at 6.8 inches — OK inside PVC. 3/16-inch brass rod: more rigid; neater finish; slightly shorter effective length due to larger diameter — reduce by 0.1 inch: use 6.7 inches. 3/16-inch aluminium rod: same as brass rod. The upper element fits inside the PVC housing. It must be straight — PVC keeps it aligned.
3

Prepare the Coax Sections

The antenna uses one continuous piece of RG-58 coax, processed in three sections from top to bottom. Cut the RG-58 to 9.5 inches total — slightly more than the 8.98 inches needed for the lower radiator plus balun, with margin for the bottom connection hardware.

Working from the TOP of the coax downward, prepare the sections:

Coax preparation — working from TOP: Section 1 — Lower radiating element (top 4.49 inches): Strip the outer jacket only from the top 4.49 inches. Leave the braid shield exposed — this exposed braid IS the lower radiating element. Do NOT remove the braid. Do NOT expose the inner conductor in this section. The inner conductor passes through this section as the feedline for the upper element. At the top end of the coax: Strip 1 inch of outer jacket AND braid to expose the inner conductor. Solder the upper element wire to this inner conductor end. This is the junction between the lower and upper radiating elements. Section 2 — Sleeve balun (bottom 4.49 inches): This section retains its full outer jacket. This is the reference/feedline section where the coax is feeding the antenna. Total coax: 4.49 + 4.49 = 8.98 inches (Use 9.5 inches of coax; the extra 0.5 inches accommodates the bottom connector hardware)
Do not confuse the two sections: The lower radiating element (top 4.49 inches with jacket stripped, braid exposed) and the balun section (bottom 4.49 inches with jacket on) must not be swapped. The radiating element is at the TOP of the coax assembly, closer to the upper element. The balun section is at the BOTTOM, where the feedpoint SO-239 connects. Getting these reversed produces an antenna that does not resonate near 435 MHz.
4

Solder the Upper Element to the Coax Inner Conductor

At the top end of the coax, the inner conductor is exposed by stripping 1 inch of both jacket and braid. Solder the bottom of the upper radiating element wire directly to this inner conductor. The joint must be mechanically strong — this is the structural connection between the upper and lower halves of the antenna:

Upper element connection: 1. Strip 1 inch of jacket and braid from top of coax. 2. Expose inner conductor fully. 3. Tin both the inner conductor and the bottom of the upper element wire with solder. 4. Solder together — a strong, smooth, silver joint. 5. Allow to cool fully before handling. 6. Verify the joint mechanically — gently tug the upper element. It should not pull free. After soldering: The antenna structure from top to bottom: [Upper element wire: 6.80 inches bare wire] [Solder junction] [Lower radiating element: 4.49 in, braid exposed] [Sleeve balun: 4.49 in, jacket on] [Bottom of coax: where SO-239 connects] Total height from bottom of coax to top of upper element: 4.49 + 4.49 + 6.80 = 15.78 inches
5

Close the Sleeve Balun and Connect the Feedpoint

The sleeve balun is formed by the exposed coax braid of the lower radiating element section acting as one conductor, and the inner conductor (connecting to the upper element) as the other. The sleeve must be short-circuited at its BOTTOM end (the junction between the lower radiating element and the balun section). This short circuit is made by soldering the exposed braid to the outer jacket of the balun section at the junction point:

Sleeve balun short circuit: At the junction between the lower radiating element (stripped jacket section) and the balun section (jacket-on section): Solder the exposed braid of the lower radiating element to the outer surface of the jacket at the exact boundary. This creates a ring of solder that bonds the braid to the jacket edge, closing the sleeve balun at its bottom. Some builders use a small hose clamp here instead of solder — mechanically works but creates a connection that can corrode over time. Use solder. Bottom of coax — SO-239 connection: Strip 1 inch of outer jacket from bottom of coax. Fold back the braid to expose the inner conductor. Connect: Coax inner conductor → SO-239 centre pin Coax braid → SO-239 flange (ground) This is the feedpoint where the external coax connects to feed the complete antenna.
Tip: Install the SO-239 chassis connector in the PVC bottom end cap first, then connect the coax braid and centre to it. This makes it easier to handle the cap while soldering than trying to solder to a loose connector. Use the drill press or a step bit to make a clean 3/4-inch hole in the centre of the bottom end cap for the SO-239 body.
6

Test SWR Before Housing

Before installing the antenna in the PVC housing, verify the SWR with the NanoVNA. Hold the antenna vertically in free space — at arm's length, away from metal surfaces and your body. Connect the NanoVNA to the SO-239 at the bottom and sweep 420–450 MHz:

Expected bare antenna SWR sweep (no housing): Frequency Expected SWR ───────────────────────── 420 MHz 2.5:1–5:1 428 MHz 1.5:1–2.5:1 432–436 MHz 1.1:1–2.0:1 ← target 440 MHz 1.5:1–3:1 450 MHz 3:1–5:1 Note: the bare antenna should resonate slightly ABOVE the target frequency (437–442 MHz) before housing. The PVC housing will shift resonance down by approximately 3–7 MHz. This pre-shift compensates for the PVC dielectric loading. If resonance is at 432–436 MHz without housing: → After housing it will be at 425–430 MHz — too low. → Trim 2–3mm from the upper element tip to raise resonance back to 437–440 MHz, then house it. If resonance is above 445 MHz without housing: → After housing it will be near 440 MHz — OK. → Or add 2–3mm extension to upper element to lower.
7

Install in PVC Housing, Final Test, and Mount

Insert the complete antenna assembly into the PVC pipe from the bottom. The SO-239 installed in the bottom end cap serves as the mechanical anchor for the whole assembly — the coax attaches to the SO-239, holding the antenna in position inside the pipe. The upper element tip should end up 1–2 inches below the top of the pipe for protection.

With the antenna inside the unsealed pipe, connect the NanoVNA and verify SWR has shifted down to the target range (432–436 MHz). Once confirmed, cement the top cap in place and seal the SO-239 installation in the bottom cap with silicone sealant. Mount on the mast with the antenna vertical and perform a final sweep from the shack end of the coax:

Final installed SWR targets: 432 MHz: SWR 1.2:1–2.0:1 435 MHz: SWR 1.1:1–1.8:1 ← optimum 438 MHz: SWR 1.2:1–2.0:1 440 MHz: SWR 1.3:1–2.2:1 2:1 SWR bandwidth: typically 15–25 MHz Covers complete 70cm amateur allocation. If installed SWR minimum is below 428 MHz: Upper element is too long. (You cannot trim it after housing without disassembly — avoid by pre-testing carefully) If installed SWR minimum is above 440 MHz: Upper element is too short. You can add a short wire extension by threading it through the sealed top cap if needed — use a small eyelet hole with silicone sealer. Mast mounting: Mount PVC pipe vertically. Use U-bolt clamps on the pipe body — avoid mounting the bottom end cap directly to the mast as mechanical stress can crack the cap over time. A pipe clamp midway up the PVC housing provides a better mounting point.

Stealth Installation Options

The flower pot's concealed design opens up installation locations that are impossible for visible antennas:

  • Plumbing vent disguise: a white PVC flower pot mounted on a rooftop is indistinguishable from a plumbing vent pipe. Add a standard plumbing vent cap to the top and a cleanout fitting at the bottom to make it look more like actual plumbing. In HOA-restricted neighbourhoods or rental properties, this approach passes casual inspection without revealing an antenna.
  • Fence post installation: a flower pot inside a hollow PVC fence post — common fence styles use 4-inch square white PVC posts — is completely invisible. The PVC wall is thin enough that antenna performance is minimally affected. Connect the coax through a small hole at the base of the post, painted over to match the post colour.
  • Flag pole installation: a flower pot inside a thin-wall aluminium or fibreglass flag pole works if the pole is non-conductive. Aluminium flag poles act as a short circuit around the antenna — use fibreglass or PVC flag poles only. Some commercial flag pole antennas use exactly this approach.
  • Apartment building rooftop: a single white PVC pipe strapped to a rooftop air conditioning conduit or drain pipe is often entirely ignored by building management. The 18-inch height of the 70cm flower pot is unobtrusive. Always get explicit written permission before installing on property you do not own — this advice applies regardless of how concealed the antenna is.

Dual-Band Version — 2m and 70cm

A dual-band flower pot for simultaneous 2m and 70cm operation can be built by stacking two coaxial dipole sections on the same coax feedline. The original VK2ZOI design describes this configuration in detail — the key principle is that the 70cm sleeve balun dimensions are chosen to be electrically transparent on 2m while working correctly on 70cm:

  • Design principle: the 70cm sleeve balun (λ/4 at 435 MHz) is approximately 3λ/4 at 145 MHz — an odd multiple of λ/4, which presents high impedance on 2m just as it does on 70cm. This means a single sleeve balun works on both bands simultaneously.
  • Construction: add a 2m upper radiating element (19.5 inches for 145 MHz) above the 70cm element. The 70cm element serves as a sleeve balun for the 2m element on both bands. The complete antenna has three sections: 2m upper element (bare wire), 70cm lower element (braid exposed), and balun (jacket on).
  • Feedpoint: one SO-239 feeds both bands simultaneously — no switching required. The antenna works on whichever band is active.
  • Housing: a 36-inch PVC pipe houses the dual-band version. It is still visually very similar to the 70cm-only version and easily passes as plumbing infrastructure.
  • Reference: the VK2ZOI flower pot design page provides exact dimensions for the dual-band version — search for "VK2ZOI flower pot antenna" for the original documentation.
Symptom Most likely cause Diagnosis Fix
High SWR across entire sweep — no resonance visibleOpen or short at wrong location; coax inner conductor not connected to upper element; or sleeve balun short circuit missingOhmmeter from SO-239 centre to upper element tip should show continuity; check sleeve balun solder joint at section boundaryRebuild junction between inner conductor and upper element; verify sleeve balun short circuit solder joint is present and solid
Resonance well below 420 MHz even before housingCoax sections are too long; or VF was overestimatedMeasure each coax section length with caliper; compare to 4.49 inches; calculate actual VF with test stub methodRebuild with shorter coax sections using accurately measured VF; do not trim the upper element first — the coax sections are the primary determinant of frequency
Resonance above 460 MHz even before housingCoax sections too short; or VF underestimatedMeasure coax section lengths; verify total is 8.98 inchesRebuild with longer coax sections; measure VF with test stub before cutting
SWR minimum at correct frequency but value is 3:1 or higherSleeve balun short circuit not forming a clean RF short; or inner conductor shorted to braid at wrong locationVerify the sleeve balun boundary solder joint makes a clean connection between braid and jacket edge; check that inner conductor is not shorted to braid except at the SO-239 connectionResolder sleeve balun boundary solder joint; verify electrical isolation between inner and outer at all points except SO-239
Performance good initially but degrades over months outdoorsMoisture ingress at top cap solder joint between upper element and coax; or corrosion at SO-239Disassemble and inspect; look for green corrosion at the inner conductor / upper element solder junctionRebuild corroded junction with fresh solder; apply self-amalgamating tape over junction before re-housing; ensure top cap is fully sealed with PVC cement
PVC housing is now sealed and resonance is wrong — can I fix it?Upper element needs trimming (too low frequency) or extending (too high frequency)Measure SWR minimum frequency; calculate how much frequency correction is neededFor trimming: carefully drill a small hole in the top cap and use a file through the hole to shorten the upper element tip — difficult but sometimes possible. For extending: thread a short wire extension through a sealed eyelet in the top cap. Prevention is far better — always test before sealing.

Can I use RG-8X instead of RG-58 for the flower pot?

Yes — RG-8X works well and its velocity factor is typically 0.82 rather than 0.66 for RG-58. Using RG-8X requires different coax section lengths: λ/4 in RG-8X at 435 MHz is (300/435 × 0.82) / 4 = 0.141 m = 5.56 inches, compared to 4.49 inches for RG-58. An RG-8X flower pot has longer coax sections and is slightly larger in diameter — it may need a 1-inch PVC housing rather than 3/4-inch. The principle and construction procedure are identical; only the calculated section lengths change. Always use the actual measured VF of your specific cable.

Why is it called a flower pot?

The antenna was originally described by VK2ZOI with the coax and upper element housed in a commercial white PVC pipe. When mounted on a balcony railing or rooftop with the antenna pipe pointing upward and a garden flower pot placed inverted over the bottom to hide the SO-239 connector, the complete installation looks like a decorative element — a pipe with a flower pot. The name stuck in Australian amateur radio circles and spread worldwide with the design. Many builders now omit the flower pot prop entirely and just use a sealed PVC pipe, but the name remains universal for the design.

Does the PVC colour matter for antenna performance?

White and grey PVC have essentially identical dielectric constants and losses — both produce the same antenna performance. The only significant colour-related consideration is UV resistance: white PVC reflects UV more effectively and maintains its mechanical properties longer in direct sunlight than unpainted grey PVC. Both are adequate for the 5–10+ year lifespan of the antenna. If painting the PVC to blend with the environment (fence colour, building colour), use standard spray paint compatible with PVC — the paint layer is thin enough that it does not measurably affect antenna performance.

How does the flower pot compare to a commercial 70cm antenna?

A well-built 70cm flower pot performs comparably to commercial quarter-wave ground plane antennas (which it outperforms by ~3 dBd) and similarly to commercial J-poles and slim jims in the same gain class. Commercial collinear antennas like the Diamond X50 or X200 series outperform the flower pot by 2–4 dBd because they use multiple in-phase stacked elements rather than a single dipole. For the price difference ($15 homebrew vs $60–90 commercial collinear), the flower pot delivers excellent value. If maximum performance is the goal and HOA stealth is not required, the 2m/70cm collinear guide describes a higher-gain alternative.

Can I transmit at 50W into the flower pot?

Yes — an RG-58 flower pot handles 50W continuous without concern. RG-58 is rated for approximately 100–200W at 435 MHz depending on the specific cable grade, and the antenna's thin inner conductor (14 AWG copper wire) handles 50W at 70cm with minimal heating. At 100W the antenna still works correctly but the coax sections experience modest warming under sustained carrier — digital modes at 100W for extended periods may cause the coax inner insulation to soften slightly at the solder junctions. For stations regularly running 100W digital modes, rebuild the antenna using RG-8X (heavier coax with larger conductor) rather than RG-58.

What is the radiation pattern of the flower pot?

The flower pot radiates an omnidirectional pattern in the horizontal plane — equal gain in all directions around the antenna axis. In the vertical plane, the pattern is compressed toward the horizon compared to a simple quarter-wave vertical: maximum radiation occurs at approximately 8–12° elevation rather than 20–25°. This pattern compression is what produces the 3–4 dBd gain relative to a dipole or ground plane — not more total power, but more power directed toward the horizon where it is most useful for terrestrial communication. Directly overhead (90° elevation) the flower pot has a null, and directly below the antenna there is also a null — both of which are the normal behaviour for a vertically polarised end-fed half-wave dipole.

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