Skip to content
View in the app

A better way to browse. Learn more.

Ham Radio Base -Powered By Ham CQ DX

A full-screen app on your home screen with push notifications, badges and more.

To install this app on iOS and iPadOS
  1. Tap the Share icon in Safari
  2. Scroll the menu and tap Add to Home Screen.
  3. Tap Add in the top-right corner.
To install this app on Android
  1. Tap the 3-dot menu (⋮) in the top-right corner of the browser.
  2. Tap Add to Home screen or Install app.
  3. Confirm by tapping Install.
Solar
SFI 128
SN 73
A 6
K 1 Quiet
X-Ray B7.8
Wind 387.9 km/s
Aurora 3
Updated 01:00 UTC HamQSL · N0NBH
Day 80/40m Fair 30/20m Good 17/15m Good 12/10m Fair
Night 80/40m Good 30/20m Good 17/15m Good 12/10m Poor

Callsign Lookup
_
Vanity Call Signs Available
Enter filters above and click Search.
ⓘ Callsign lookups are in real time via the FCC database. Vanity callsign availability is refreshed daily at 6:00 AM CST. The vanity search may be unavailable for a few minutes during this update.
Live DX spots
Live DX Spots — 70cm via PSKReporter · scroll or pinch to zoom
Band
Mode
Time
Loading map data…
MHz DX Spotter Info
Recent spots
Select a band above to load spots
Ready — select a band to fetch live spots

Build a 70cm J-Pole Antenna

The 70cm J-pole is the copper pipe J-pole concept scaled to 432–450 MHz — the same proven design that produces reliable 2m FM performance, miniaturized to antenna dimensions that fit in a coat pocket and build from a single foot of 1/4-inch copper pipe. At 70cm wavelength everything shrinks to one-third of the 2m version: the radiating element drops from 40 inches to 13.3 inches, the matching stub from 19.5 inches to 6.5 inches, and the entire antenna fits in a section of pipe shorter than a ruler. What does not shrink is the importance of precise construction — at 430 MHz a 3 mm position error in the feedpoint tap shifts the SWR measurably, and a 5 mm error in element length moves the resonance off the top of the 70cm band. This guide builds the 70cm J-pole for the 70cm FM repeater segment (430–450 MHz) with the same soldering and tuning approach used for the 2m version.

~2 dBdGain over dipole
Omni360° pattern
~20 inTotal height
~$12Typical build cost

Dimension Scaling from 2m to 70cm

Every electrical dimension of the J-pole scales with frequency. The ratio of 2m to 70cm center frequencies (146 MHz to 440 MHz) gives the scaling factor:

Scaling factor: 146 / 440 = 0.332 2m J-pole → 70cm J-pole dimensions: Half-wave radiator: 2m: 40.0 inches → 70cm: 40.0 × 0.332 = 13.3 inches Quarter-wave matching stub: 2m: 19.5 inches → 70cm: 19.5 × 0.332 = 6.5 inches Gap between element tops: 2m: 1.0 inch → 70cm: 0.35 inch (~3/8 inch) Feedpoint tap starting position: 2m: 1.75 inches above short bar 70cm: 1.75 × 0.332 = 0.58 inch (~9/16 inch) Total height: 2m: ~60 inches → 70cm: ~20 inches These dimensions are for the 440 MHz FM repeater band. For 432 MHz weak-signal/satellite: f_design = 432 MHz instead of 440 MHz Scaling factor = 146/432 = 0.338 Radiator: 40.0 × 0.338 = 13.5 inches Stub: 19.5 × 0.338 = 6.6 inches

Construction Precision at 70cm

The 70cm J-pole is physically tiny — a 3 mm error that was inconsequential on the 2m version becomes a meaningful fraction of the antenna at 70cm:

Tolerance comparison (2m vs 70cm J-pole): Element length tolerance for 1 MHz frequency shift: 2m J-pole: ~6.5 mm (0.25 inch) length error 70cm J-pole: ~2.2 mm (0.09 inch) length error (roughly 3× tighter for same frequency shift) Feedpoint tap position sensitivity: 2m: 1/4-inch tap movement ≈ 10 Ω impedance change 70cm: 1/4-inch tap movement ≈ 30+ Ω impedance change (very sensitive — use 1/8-inch adjustment steps) Gap dimension sensitivity: 2m gap: 1.0 inch ± 0.25 inch acceptable 70cm gap: 0.35 inch ± 0.1 inch required (much tighter — measure and set carefully) Practical implications: Use a steel rule or digital calipers for all cuts. Do not estimate — measure every dimension twice. The gap between elements must be set to 3/8 inch using a spacer during soldering to maintain it. The feedpoint SO-239 tap position adjustment should be in 1/8-inch increments, not 1/4-inch.

Pipe Size Selection for 70cm

The 2m J-pole used 1/2-inch copper pipe. At 70cm the antenna is one-third the size, and 1/2-inch pipe becomes proportionally too large — the pipe diameter starts to become a significant fraction of the wavelength:

Pipe diameter comparison at design frequency: 2m J-pole (1/2-inch pipe, 146 MHz): Pipe OD / wavelength = 0.5 in / 80.9 in = 0.006 Pipe diameter is 0.6% of wavelength — negligible 70cm J-pole (1/2-inch pipe, 440 MHz): Pipe OD / wavelength = 0.5 in / 26.8 in = 0.019 Pipe diameter is 1.9% of wavelength — small but not entirely negligible for precise element lengths 70cm J-pole (1/4-inch pipe, 440 MHz): Pipe OD / wavelength = 0.25 in / 26.8 in = 0.009 Pipe diameter is 0.9% of wavelength — similar to 2m version, produces more predictable results Recommendation: use 1/4-inch OD copper pipe (soft refrigeration tubing or plumbing pipe) for the 70cm J-pole. If 1/4-inch pipe is unavailable: 3/8-inch OD pipe works adequately. Shorten element lengths by 2–3% to compensate for the larger pipe diameter velocity factor. The feedpoint tap adjustment (NanoVNA) corrects for most remaining impedance variation.

Connector Choice at 70cm

At 70cm, the feedpoint connector quality becomes operationally significant in a way it is not at 2m:

  • N-type (recommended): the gold standard for 70cm. Low loss, weatherproof, rated to 18 GHz. Adds approximately $4–6 to the build cost but eliminates connector-related SWR and loss issues entirely. Use N-type if the antenna will be at height on a permanent installation.
  • SMA: very compact and low loss at 70cm. Excellent for a portable or handheld-connected antenna. The small size makes direct connection to the pipe difficult — use a short SMA pigtail from the feedpoint tap to the radio coax connector.
  • BNC: adequate for receive and low-power operation. Rated to 4 GHz, above 70cm, so electrically suitable. Less weatherproof than N-type — seal carefully for outdoor use. Common in portable and test applications.
  • SO-239 / PL-259 (UHF type): despite the name "UHF connector," the SO-239/PL-259 is mechanically designed for HF and performs poorly above 300 MHz — high insertion loss, poor impedance consistency, and large physical size relative to the 70cm antenna. Avoid for any serious 70cm installation. If already on hand, acceptable for temporary use only.
Section Length (inches) Length (mm) Notes
Half-wave radiator13.5 in343 mmStarting length — trim for tuning; add 0.5 in margin → cut 14.0 in
Quarter-wave matching stub6.5 in165 mmFixed — do not trim; cut to exact 6.5 inches
Gap between element tops0.38 in (3/8 in)9.5 mmCritical — maintain with spacer during soldering; ±0.1 inch tolerance
Bottom elbow (short circuit)Standard 1/4-inch 90° elbow~12 mm ODSame soldering as 2m version; joins radiator base to stub base
Feedpoint tap — starting position0.56 in above elbow center14 mmAdjust in 1/8-inch steps for minimum SWR; very sensitive at 70cm
Total height (radiator + gap + stub)~20.4 in~518 mmCompact — fits in a 24-inch section of PVC conduit housing
Feedpoint connectorN-type preferred; BNC acceptableSO-239/PL-259 not recommended at 70cm — excessive loss above 300 MHz

Uhf Jpole 70cm Calculator

Materials for a 70cm J-pole from 1/4-inch copper pipe

🔘1/4-inch OD soft copper refrigeration tube or pipe, 3 ftBoth elements from one piece — radiator (14 in) and stub (6.5 in)
🔩1/4-inch copper 90° elbow, 1 pieceShort-circuit bar at bottom — forms the J-shape
🔩1/4-inch copper end caps, 2 piecesTop of radiator and top of stub
🔩N-type chassis connector (female), 1 pieceFeedpoint — N-type strongly preferred over SO-239 at 70cm
🔘3/8-inch gap spacer — scrap plastic or wood, 2 piecesHolds element tops at correct gap spacing during soldering
🪛Propane or MAP gas torch, lead-free plumbing solder, fluxFor all copper pipe joints — same process as 2m J-pole
🔧Mini pipe cutter or fine hacksaw, files, sandpaperMini pipe cutter produces cleaner cuts on 1/4-inch copper than a hacksaw
🌀LMR-400 coax, 25 ftFeedline — LMR-400 minimum at 70cm; avoid RG-58 entirely
🔮Type-31 ferrite beads (5) or snap-on ferriteFeedline current choke — essential at 70cm
📡NanoVNA with N-type adapterFor SWR measurement — measure at feedpoint, not shack end of coax
📏Steel rule and digital calipersMeasure all dimensions — do not estimate at 70cm
🏗️1-inch PVC conduit, 24 inches (optional housing)Weatherproof housing — the complete 70cm J-pole fits inside with room to spare

The Gap Spacer — Critical at 70cm

At 2m the 1-inch gap between element tops is easy to set by eye during assembly and the 0.25-inch tolerance leaves room for error. At 70cm the 3/8-inch gap with a 0.1-inch tolerance must be physically enforced during soldering:

Gap spacer construction: Cut two pieces of scrap plastic rod or hardwood dowel to exactly 3/8 inch (0.375 inch / 9.5 mm). During the bottom elbow soldering: Insert the two spacer pieces between the element tops to hold them at exactly 3/8-inch separation. The spacers hold the gap while solder sets. After the solder cools: Remove the plastic spacers by pulling them free. If the spacers stick slightly from solder wicking: Twist gently and pull — do not pry (may bend the pipe). Verify gap with calipers after cooling: The gap should measure 0.35–0.40 inch. A gap smaller than 0.30 inch raises SWR and shifts resonance downward. A gap larger than 0.45 inch shifts resonance upward and changes the match impedance. Do not rely on fittings or elbow geometry to set the gap — measure and use spacers. The elbow fitting's geometry does not automatically produce the correct gap at this small pipe size.

Feedpoint Connector Installation at 70cm

Installing the N-type connector on 1/4-inch copper pipe requires a different approach than the SO-239 on the 2m version — the N-type's center pin connection to a thin pipe wall is more involved:

N-type feedpoint installation on 1/4-inch pipe: Option 1 — Through-pipe pin (most common): Drill a hole slightly smaller than the N-type center pin diameter through the stub pipe wall. Thread the N-type body through a hole in a small aluminum mounting bracket secured to the pipe. The center pin protrudes through the pipe wall into the pipe interior. Solder a short wire from the center pin to the far pipe wall — this bridges the pipe interior and creates a solid electrical connection. Option 2 — External bracket mounting: Mount the N-type on a small brass or copper plate (25 × 25 mm) attached to the stub pipe. The center pin connects via a short solder lead to the pipe surface. The N-type shell connects directly to the plate which contacts the stub pipe (one element). A second wire from the plate runs to the radiator pipe at the same height — this is the shield connection (other element). Option 3 — Use SMA with pigtail: Mount an SMA connector on a small plate. Use a 3-inch SMA pigtail to connect to the antenna tap point. This avoids the challenge of fitting a large N-type connector body onto a thin pipe.
Finished 70cm copper pipe J-pole with N-type feedpoint connector, 3/8-inch element gap, and 1-inch PVC weatherproof housing

Building the 70cm J-Pole

The 70cm J-pole follows the same build sequence as the 2m version with tighter measurements and a smaller gap spacer. Have the calipers and steel rule at hand throughout. Cut a gap spacer from plastic before starting — you will need it during the soldering step.

1

Cut Pipe Sections

From the 1/4-inch copper pipe, cut two sections using a mini pipe cutter for clean, square ends:

Pipe cuts: Radiator: 14.0 inches (0.5 inch over target — trim to 13.5 in during tuning) Stub: 6.5 inches (cut to exact length — not trimmed) Total pipe used: 20.5 inches from a 36-inch piece. Remaining: 15.5 inches (useful spare or second antenna) After cutting: Ream inner burr with pin reamer or small file. Sand outside of each pipe end 0.75 inch for soldering preparation. Copper must be bright and clean — not green. Cut two gap spacers from plastic: Each spacer: 0.375 inch (3/8 inch) length of any 1/4-inch diameter plastic rod or dowel. These will hold the element top gap during soldering. Test-fit: the two spacers should bridge the two pipe tops at 3/8-inch separation when the elbow is held below them.
2

Solder Bottom Elbow with Gap Spacers in Place

The bottom elbow soldering is the most critical mechanical step. The gap spacers must be inserted between the element tops before the elbow is soldered, to hold the separation while the solder sets:

Soldering sequence with gap spacers: 1. Flux the bottom of both pipe sections and both sockets of the 90° elbow. 2. Insert both pipe sections into the elbow — the stub into one socket, the radiator into the other. The two pipes now run parallel from the elbow. Their tops are approximately parallel and at the same height. 3. INSERT the two gap spacers between the pipe tops: push them into the gap between the two pipes at the top end. They should fit snugly and hold the pipes at exactly 3/8-inch separation. 4. VERIFY the gap with calipers: measure center-to-center distance between the two pipe tops. It should be: 1/4-inch pipe OD + 3/8-inch gap + 1/4-inch pipe OD = 0.25 + 0.375 + 0.25 = 0.875 inch center-to-center. 5. With spacers holding the gap, heat the elbow with the torch and apply lead-free solder at the joints. Work both joints quickly — the spacers may begin to soften if they are plastic; remove them as soon as the solder starts to flow, before the solder hardens. 6. Allow to cool fully before handling. Verify gap is still 3/8 inch after cooling.
Plastic spacers can melt under torch heat: Work quickly when applying heat — heat the elbow fitting, not the area near the spacers. As soon as solder flows into the first joint socket, immediately apply solder to the second socket, then remove the torch. The moment the solder starts to solidify (the surface goes from shiny liquid to dull solid), pull the spacers free. If the spacers melt and fuse to the pipe, use a sharp blade to trim the residue away from the gap — do not allow any plastic bridging the gap electrically.
3

Solder End Caps

Solder 1/4-inch end caps on both element tops — the top of the radiator and the top of the stub. Clean, flux, and solder as usual. The end caps seal the element tops against water ingress and finish the antenna mechanically.

After the end caps cool, verify the gap between the two element tops one final time with calipers. If the gap has shifted during end cap soldering (heat can soften the previous solder joints), gently press the tops to restore the 3/8-inch spacing while the solder is still slightly soft — immediately after torch removal, in the first 10 seconds of cooling.

Tip: Use Noalox or flux on the end cap joints sparingly — excess flux residue inside the small 1/4-inch pipe is difficult to clean and can slowly attack the copper over years. After soldering, wipe all external flux residue from the pipe surface with a damp cloth immediately while the solder is still warm. Once cool, flux becomes glassy and much harder to remove.
4

Install the Feedpoint Connector

Install the N-type (or BNC) feedpoint connector on the stub at 0.56 inch (14 mm) above the center of the bottom elbow. This is the starting tap position — fine adjustment happens during tuning:

Connector installation at 14 mm above elbow: Mark the position on the stub pipe: 14 mm above the center of the elbow fitting. For N-type (bracket method): Fabricate a small bracket from 1 mm copper sheet: A 25 × 25 mm square with a center hole for the N-type body and two holes for attaching to the stub. Solder the bracket to both pipes at the tap height — the bracket contacts BOTH the stub and the radiator, providing the two connection points for center and shield. Wait — the bracket must NOT short the two pipes. Instead: connect the N-type shell to ONE pipe (stub) and the N-type center to the OTHER pipe (radiator) via short solder leads. Simplified approach (BNC or SMA pigtail): Strip 20 mm of a 3-inch coax pigtail. At the tap position: Solder braid to the stub pipe surface. Solder center conductor to the radiator pipe surface. Secure the pigtail against the antenna with heat-shrink tubing slipped over both pipes at the tap point. BNC or SMA connector at the pigtail far end. The pigtail approach is mechanically simpler and electrically adequate — many builders prefer it over trying to mount a large connector directly on a small 1/4-inch pipe body.
5

Initial NanoVNA Measurement

Hold the antenna vertically at arm's length, well away from metal surfaces. Connect the NanoVNA directly at the feedpoint connector (not at the shack end of a long coax). Sweep 400–480 MHz:

Expected initial readings at 70cm: SWR minimum location: 420–455 MHz range SWR at minimum: 1.2–3.5:1 (varies with tap position) If SWR minimum is below 425 MHz: Radiator is too long — trim 2 mm from radiator tip. At 70cm, 2 mm trim ≈ 3–4 MHz frequency shift. Trim conservatively; re-measure after each trim. If SWR minimum is above 455 MHz: Radiator slightly short — verify it was cut to 14.0 inches starting length. If correct and still high, the copper pipe VF may differ slightly — add 3 mm to radiator length by soldering a short extension and re-measure. If no SWR minimum visible (SWR above 6:1 everywhere): Check both connector connections to pipe surfaces. Verify gap between element tops is open circuit (not bridged by excess solder). Verify bottom elbow solder joints are complete.
6

Tune Feedpoint Tap and Trim Radiator

The same two-variable tuning as the 2m J-pole applies, but with finer steps at 70cm:

70cm J-pole tuning sequence: Target: SWR minimum at 440 MHz (70cm FM repeater band) OR: 432 MHz for weak-signal/satellite use Step 1: Optimize tap position. Move the feedpoint connection (pigtail tap or connector bracket) up or down the stub in 1/8-inch (3 mm) steps. At each position: sweep 420–460 MHz and note the minimum SWR value. Find the tap height that produces lowest minimum. Step 2: Trim radiator for frequency. If minimum is below 438 MHz: trim 2 mm from tip. Re-measure. Trim rate: 2 mm ≈ 3–4 MHz shift. Step 3: Repeat tap optimization after any trim. Final target: For 440 MHz band: minimum SWR below 1.3:1 SWR below 1.8:1 from 430–450 MHz For 432 MHz weak-signal: minimum at 432 MHz SWR below 1.5:1 from 430–435 MHz Note: a single J-pole cannot cover both 432 MHz weak-signal and 440 MHz FM with acceptable SWR — the 18 MHz separation exceeds the antenna's 2:1 bandwidth. Build two separate antennas, or use the Dual-Band approach with a duplexer.
Tip: Measure SWR at the feedpoint connector, not at the shack end of the feedline. At 70cm, a 25-foot run of LMR-400 adds approximately 0.5 dB of loss and the coax length shifts the apparent resonance substantially. The only accurate SWR measurement for 70cm antenna tuning is directly at the feedpoint, either by holding the NanoVNA at the antenna location or by using a very short (under 12 inches) reference coax between the antenna and the NanoVNA.
7

Weatherproof and Install in PVC Housing

The complete 70cm J-pole is only 20 inches tall — it fits neatly inside a 24-inch section of 1-inch OD PVC conduit, which provides weatherproofing and a rigid mounting structure identical in concept to the Flower Pot PVC housing:

PVC housing for 70cm J-pole: PVC conduit: 1-inch OD schedule 40, cut to 22 inches Top cap: 1-inch PVC end cap — seals antenna top Bottom: drill feedpoint connector exit hole Antenna sits inside the PVC with: Top end cap of radiator near the PVC top cap. Feedpoint connector exiting through hole in the lower side of the PVC (or the bottom). Connect 5 type-31 ferrite beads to feedline immediately outside the PVC exit hole. Mounting: The PVC housing clamps to a mast with a standard 1-inch TV antenna or mast clamp — compact enough to mount alongside the 2m dual-band J-pole on the same mast with a simple 12-inch spacing bar. Weatherproof all connector exits with RTV sealant. Apply self-amalgamating tape over the coax junction. The copper pipe inside the PVC requires no treatment — copper handles the enclosed humid environment well.
Symptom Most likely cause Diagnosis Fix
SWR minimum 20+ MHz below targetRadiator much too long, or gap too small (elements electrically coupled)Measure radiator length (target 13.5 in); measure gap (target 3/8 in)Trim radiator 3 mm at a time; if gap is under 0.30 in, carefully open gap with small file or blade
Correct resonant frequency but minimum SWR above 3:1Feedpoint tap position significantly wrongMove tap in 3 mm steps up and down; note SWR at each position to find minimumIterate tap position in 3 mm increments; optimal position for 440 MHz is typically 12–18 mm above elbow center
SWR varies dramatically when hand or body is near antennaNo ferrite choke — common-mode current on feedlineMove body away from antenna during measurement — if SWR changes, common-mode is presentInstall 5 type-31 ferrite beads on feedline immediately at feedpoint; keep feedline perpendicular to antenna for first 6 inches
Good SWR but very short range on 70cm FM repeatersCoax loss — wrong coax type or damaged connectorCheck coax type — RG-58 loses 6 dB/25 ft at 440 MHz; inspect all connectorsReplace feedline with LMR-400 minimum; inspect and replace any N-type or BNC with signs of corrosion
SWR minimum shifts 5–10 MHz after mounting in PVC housingNormal — PVC dielectric slightly detuning the antennaCompare SWR bare vs in housing — shift confirms PVC dielectric effectTrim 1–2 mm from radiator to compensate for upward frequency shift induced by PVC enclosure
Element gap bridged by solder — SWR high everywhereExcess solder flowed into gap during elbow joint solderingCheck for continuity across the gap — should be open circuitUse a thin jeweler's saw or rotary tool to cut the solder bridge; verify gap is open; re-test SWR

Can I tune one J-pole to cover both 432 MHz weak-signal and 440 MHz FM?

Not with acceptable SWR on both segments simultaneously. The 70cm J-pole has a 2:1 SWR bandwidth of approximately 15–18 MHz. The distance between 432.1 MHz (weak-signal SSB) and 446 MHz (FM simplex) is 14 MHz — right at the edge of the antenna's bandwidth, meaning SWR will be above 2:1 at whichever end you tune away from. The practical solution is to build two separate 70cm J-poles — one tuned to 432 MHz for weak-signal use and one tuned to 440 MHz for FM — or to use the 10-element 70cm Yagi from the Yagi guide for weak-signal work and the J-pole for FM. The Yagi covers a smaller frequency range than the J-pole and its bandwidth at 70cm similarly does not span both segments.

Why does the 70cm J-pole need N-type instead of the SO-239 used on the 2m version?

The SO-239/PL-259 connector family — marketed with the confusing name "UHF connector" — was designed in the 1930s for HF and VHF use. Its characteristic impedance is not controlled and varies significantly at frequencies above 200–300 MHz. At 440 MHz, a PL-259/SO-239 junction introduces 0.5–1.5 dB of additional loss and an unpredictable SWR contribution from the connector geometry itself. For a 2m J-pole at 146 MHz the effect is minimal. For a 70cm J-pole at 440 MHz the connector is a significant source of degradation. N-type connectors are precision 50 Ω devices rated to 18 GHz — they add zero measurable loss at 440 MHz. BNC connectors are a reasonable compromise: they are precision 50 Ω to 4 GHz and adequate for 70cm use, though less weatherproof than N-type.

How does the 70cm J-pole compare to the 10-element Yagi for repeater use?

The comparison depends on operating style. The 70cm J-pole is omnidirectional with approximately 2 dBd gain — ideal for FM repeater use where you need to access repeaters in multiple directions without rotating the antenna. The 10-element Yagi provides 14–16 dBd of directional gain — excellent for reaching a specific repeater at maximum range or for satellite work, but requiring pointing toward each target. For a home station with one or two nearby repeaters, the J-pole is more convenient. For a portable station at a site trying to reach the most distant repeater possible, the Yagi wins decisively. Many operators have both: the J-pole as the everyday omnidirectional antenna and the Yagi available for special operations.

Can I mount the 70cm J-pole alongside the 2m J-pole on the same mast?

Yes — with adequate vertical separation. The 70cm antenna should be at least 12 inches (approximately λ/2 at 70cm) above or below the 2m antenna to minimize electrical coupling between them. In practice, a 12–18 inch separation produces negligible interaction, and both antennas can share the same mast with individual feedlines to a dual-band radio or a duplexer. Physical clearance is the primary concern: the 2m J-pole is 60 inches tall, so stacking it above the 70cm J-pole (20 inches tall) on the same mast with a 12-inch spacing bar produces a total antenna assembly of approximately 95 inches — less than 8 feet, manageable on a standard push-up mast. The resulting two-antenna station covers 2m and 70cm independently with optimal performance on each band.

Is the 70cm J-pole suitable for APRS on 144.390 MHz?

No — the 70cm J-pole operates at 430–450 MHz and has no usable SWR at 144 MHz. APRS in North America uses 144.390 MHz, which is a 2m frequency. For APRS you need a 2m antenna — the 2m J-pole, Slim Jim, Flower Pot, or any other 2m vertical from this guide series. The 70cm band does have digital modes including APRS-like digipeating in some regions using protocols like LoRa and AFSK at 433 MHz, but this is a different system from the standard APRS network. If you need both 2m APRS and 70cm FM simultaneously from a single feedline, the dual-band J-pole guide covers that specific combination.

Can I use 3/8-inch pipe instead of 1/4-inch pipe?

Yes — 3/8-inch OD copper pipe works for a 70cm J-pole. The larger diameter means a slightly lower velocity factor on the pipe, which shifts the resonant frequency slightly lower than the calculated dimensions. Shorten all element lengths by approximately 2–3% from the table values to compensate — start the radiator at 13.0 inches instead of 13.5 inches, and the stub at 6.3 inches instead of 6.5 inches. The NanoVNA tuning step will correct any remaining offset. The gap between element tops should remain at 3/8 inch. The 3/8-inch pipe is more readily available at hardware stores than 1/4-inch, and produces a slightly more robust mechanical assembly — a worthwhile trade if you cannot source 1/4-inch pipe locally.


Affiliate Disclosure: As an Amazon Associate, Ham Radio Base earns from qualifying purchases. Some links throughout this website may be affiliate links. If you purchase a product through one of these links, we may earn a commission at no additional cost to you. Your support helps us continue creating free articles, tutorials, reviews, and resources for the amateur radio community. N0TLB © Ham Radio Base - Powered by the Ham CQ DX Community. All rights reserved.

Search

Search

Configure browser push notifications

Chrome (Android)
  1. Tap the lock icon next to the address bar.
  2. Tap Permissions → Notifications.
  3. Adjust your preference.
Chrome (Desktop)
  1. Click the padlock icon in the address bar.
  2. Select Site settings.
  3. Find Notifications and adjust your preference.