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Build a 2-Meter Flower Pot Antenna

The Flower Pot antenna — named after the PVC pipe housing that looks like an inverted flower pot — is a coaxial collinear antenna built entirely from a single length of coax. Originally described by John Bishop VK2ZOI and refined by the Australian VHF community, it combines a half-wave radiating section above a coaxial choke in a configuration that produces genuine low-angle gain from a simple, weatherproof, self-contained structure. Unlike the J-pole or Slim Jim which require visible wire elements, the Flower Pot's active radiating element is the bare coax itself — enclosed in a PVC tube, it looks like a white pole antenna but builds for under $20 and outperforms many commercial alternatives.

~3 dBdGain over dipole
Low angleHorizon-optimized pattern
~55 inActive coax length
~$18Typical build cost

Coaxial Collinear Fundamentals

The Flower Pot is a coaxial collinear — a type of antenna where the radiating elements are formed from the coax itself, using the outer braid as the radiating surface and exploiting the phase relationships between sections to concentrate radiation toward the horizon:

Flower Pot structure from top to bottom: Section 1 — Half-wave radiator (top): The coax center conductor AND braid both radiate. Length: ~19.3 inches (λ/2 at 146 MHz, VF 0.66) This section is the primary radiating element. The top end is left open (center and braid not joined). Section 2 — Coaxial choke (middle): A specific length of coax wound into a coil, OR a straight section with the exact length to provide high impedance on its outer surface. Length: ~19.3 inches (λ/2 at 146 MHz) The choke isolates the upper radiating section from the feedline below — preventing the feedline from radiating and distorting the pattern. Section 3 — Feedline (bottom): Standard coax from the choke bottom to the radio. The SO-239 or BNC connector is at the bottom of the choke section. Note: unlike the J-pole, the Flower Pot has no separate matching stub. The feedpoint impedance is determined by the choke design and typically falls in the range of 40–60 Ω — close enough to 50 Ω for direct coax connection with no tuner.

The Coaxial Choke — Critical Element

The coaxial choke is the most important and most misunderstood part of the Flower Pot. It must present high impedance to common-mode (outside-of-braid) current at 146 MHz while allowing the inner transmission line current to flow freely:

Coaxial choke options for 146 MHz Flower Pot: Option 1 — Coiled choke (most common): Wind 6–7 turns of the coax into a coil, approximately 3–4 inches in diameter, at the junction between the radiating section and the feedline section. The coil's inductance at 146 MHz creates high impedance to common-mode current. Tape the coil securely to prevent uncoiling. Option 2 — Straight λ/2 choke section: A straight section of coax exactly λ/2 long (at the operating frequency, considering VF) presents a virtual short circuit from the OUTSIDE of the braid — similar to a choke. Length: 19.3 inches for 146 MHz, VF 0.66 Simpler than winding a coil but requires more precise length for effective choking. Option 3 — Ferrite bead choke: 10–15 type-43 ferrite beads on the coax at the junction. Provides broadband choking. Most compact solution; slightly less effective than a resonant choke at the design frequency. This guide uses the coiled choke (Option 1) — most forgiving of length errors and provides excellent choking at 146 MHz.

Why the Flower Pot Produces Gain

The Flower Pot's gain compared to a single dipole comes from the collinear configuration — the radiating section above the choke and the feedline below the choke are both radiating in phase, adding their fields constructively toward the horizon:

Flower Pot gain mechanism: The coaxial choke creates a phase reversal between the radiating section above it and the feedline below. Both sections radiate in-phase toward the horizon, adding approximately 3 dB of collinear gain compared to a simple half-wave dipole. Pattern comparison at 146 MHz: Quarter-wave vertical: 0 dBd, modest low-angle J-pole (half-wave): 2 dBd, slightly lower angle Flower Pot (collinear): 3 dBd, lower angle still Commercial 5/8-wave: 3–4 dBd The Flower Pot's low-angle pattern enhancement is particularly valuable for: — Repeater access from greater distances — Simplex contacts over flat terrain — APRS coverage with a larger footprint — Linking sites where low-angle gain matters Vertical beamwidth: ~25–30° (narrower than J-pole) This concentrates more energy at the horizon.

Coax Selection and Velocity Factor

The Flower Pot dimensions depend critically on the velocity factor (VF) of the specific coax used. Using the wrong VF produces an off-frequency antenna:

Velocity factor of common coax types: RG-58: VF = 0.66 (solid polyethylene) RG-8X: VF = 0.82 (foam polyethylene) RG-213: VF = 0.66 (solid polyethylene) LMR-400: VF = 0.85 (foam polyethylene) RG-174: VF = 0.66 (solid polyethylene) Length of λ/2 at 146 MHz for different coax: VF 0.66: (984 × 0.66) / (2 × 146) = 2.22 ft = 26.7 in VF 0.82: (984 × 0.82) / (2 × 146) = 2.76 ft = 33.1 in VF 0.85: (984 × 0.85) / (2 × 146) = 2.86 ft = 34.3 in This guide uses RG-58 (VF 0.66) — most widely available, lowest cost, and the VF is well-established. The completed antenna uses approximately 5 feet of RG-58. If using a different coax, recalculate ALL section lengths using the actual VF of your coax. Mixing different coax types in one antenna causes impedance steps that produce SWR and pattern issues. Use the SAME coax throughout the entire antenna.
Section Length (inches) Length (mm) Notes
Radiating section (top)26.7 in678 mmλ/2 at 146 MHz in RG-58 (VF 0.66); top end open; full coax including jacket
Coiled choke (middle)26.7 in of coax (coiled)678 mm coiledλ/2 section wound into 6–7 turns ~3.5-inch diameter; forms choke at junction
Feedline (bottom)As needed — length to radioVariableSame RG-58 continues from choke to SO-239 connector at base
Total active coax length~53 inches (radiator + choke)~1346 mmPlus feedline to radio
Top of radiating sectionOpen — do not connect or shortLeave center and braid separated at top; do not short
PVC housing tube (optional)4–5 ft (covers radiator + choke)~1.2–1.5 m3/4-inch OD schedule 40 PVC conduit; weatherproofs and provides support

Vhf Flowerpot Calculator

Materials for a 2m Flower Pot antenna in a PVC housing

🌀RG-58 coax, 8 ftFor radiator, choke coil, and feedline — all same coax type throughout
🏗️3/4-inch OD PVC conduit, 4 ftHousing tube — weatherproofs and gives the Flower Pot its name
🔩3/4-inch PVC end cap (top) and coupling (bottom), 1 eachSeals the top of the PVC tube; bottom coupling for mast connection
🔩SO-239 chassis connector, 1 pieceFeedpoint connector at base of antenna — connects to feedline to shack
🪛Soldering iron and rosin core solderFor SO-239 feedpoint connections only — no other soldering needed
🔩Electrical tape, 1 rollFor securing the choke coil turns — wrap tightly after winding
🔩RTV silicone sealantSealing PVC housing and SO-239 mounting hole against moisture
🌀LMR-400 or RG-8X coax, 50 ft (separate)Feedline from SO-239 at antenna base to shack radio — separate from antenna coax
📡NanoVNAFor SWR verification — initial measurement and after any adjustments
🏗️Mast clamp or U-bolt for mountingFits 3/4-inch OD PVC for attachment to standard mast or pipe
Finished 2-meter Flower Pot antenna with RG-58 coax radiator and choke coil housed inside a white PVC pipe

Building the Flower Pot Antenna

The Flower Pot is built in two main sub-assemblies: the active coax section (radiator + choke) and the PVC housing. The active section is built first, verified with the NanoVNA, and then inserted into the PVC housing for weatherproofing and mounting. No special tools are needed beyond a soldering iron and a wire stripper.

1

Measure and Mark the RG-58 Coax

Cut an 8-foot length of RG-58 coax. Working from the TOP (the end that will be at the top of the antenna), mark the following positions along the coax with a permanent marker:

Coax marking positions (from TOP): Top end: 0 inches (open — nothing done here yet) Mark 1: 26.7 inches from top = BOTTOM of radiating section = START of choke coil winding Mark 2: 26.7 + 26.7 = 53.4 inches from top = END of choke coil winding = FEEDPOINT (where SO-239 connects) Below Mark 2: remainder of coax = feedline to the radio. For an antenna on a 10-foot mast with 50 ft to shack, cut to ~65 inches from top. For longer runs, splice in LMR-400 at the SO-239. Total coax needed for active section: 53.4 inches Plus feedline: variable (or splice at SO-239) Label the marks clearly: Mark 1: "START CHOKE" with red marker Mark 2: "FEEDPOINT/END CHOKE" with blue marker
2

Wind the Choke Coil

The choke coil is formed by winding the coax between Mark 1 (start choke) and Mark 2 (end choke/feedpoint) into a coil. This 26.7-inch section of coax becomes the choke that isolates the radiating section above from the feedline below:

Choke coil winding procedure: 1. Hold the coax at Mark 1 and begin winding the coax into a circular coil. 2. Coil dimensions: Diameter: 3.5 inches (90 mm) This fits neatly inside 3/4-inch PVC conduit. Number of turns: approximately 7 turns (26.7 inches ÷ (π × 3.5 inches) = 7.6 turns → use 7 turns, slightly looser spacing) 3. Wind all 7 turns neatly in the same direction. Keep turns tight against each other — a neat compact coil is better than a loose open one. 4. After winding, wrap the entire coil with 3–4 layers of electrical tape, starting from Mark 1 and ending at Mark 2. The tape holds the coil shape permanently. 5. Wrap an additional 2 layers of tape over the full coil once the shape is secured. The finished coil should be compact, rigid, and approximately 3.5 inches in diameter and 1.5–2 inches long (7 turns of RG-58). After taping, Mark 1 protrudes from the top of the coil, Mark 2 protrudes from the bottom.
Tip: Use a short piece of 3-inch diameter PVC pipe as a winding form — wrap the coax around the pipe for the first turn, then continue winding the remaining turns freehand while maintaining the same diameter. When done, slide the coil off the pipe and tape it. Using a form produces more consistent, reproducible coils than winding freehand.
3

Prepare the Top of the Radiating Section

At the very top end of the coax (0 inches from top), the center conductor and braid must be separated — NOT shorted. The top end of the radiating section is an open circuit:

Top end preparation: Strip 1 inch of outer jacket from the top end. Fold the exposed braid back over the jacket and secure with electrical tape. The center conductor hangs free — insulated tip. OR the simpler method used by most builders: Do nothing to the top end. Leave the coax completely intact with jacket. The coax jacket's insulation ensures no electrical contact at the open tip. The folded-back braid method is cosmetically neater but electrically identical — the RF "knows" where the conductor ends regardless of the jacket status. Do NOT short center conductor to braid at the top: Shorting the top transforms the antenna into a folded dipole — changes its character completely.
4

Install the SO-239 Feedpoint Connector

At Mark 2 (53.4 inches from top = end of choke coil), install the SO-239 feedpoint connector. This is the only soldering required for the Flower Pot build:

SO-239 installation at Mark 2 (feedpoint): 1. At Mark 2, strip 1 inch of outer jacket. 2. Push back the braid and strip 0.5 inch of inner dielectric to expose the center conductor. 3. Solder the SO-239 center pin to the coax center conductor. 4. Solder the SO-239 shell (outer ring) to the coax braid. Verify: the SO-239 is the junction between the choke coil above and the feedline below. Above the SO-239: the choke coil (taped coil). Below the SO-239: the feedline to the radio. The feedline (below SO-239) is a SEPARATE coax run from the SO-239 to the radio — ideally LMR-400 for low loss. Connect it to the SO-239 via a PL-259. If extending with a different coax below the SO-239: The coax type CAN change at the SO-239 junction — only the antenna coax (above SO-239) must be the specific RG-58 used for the dimensions. Below the SO-239, any 50Ω coax serves as feedline.
5

Initial SWR Measurement — Bare Antenna

Before inserting into the PVC housing, measure the SWR with the antenna hanging vertically. Connect the NanoVNA to the SO-239. Hold the antenna vertically at arm's length, away from metal surfaces. Sweep 130–170 MHz:

Expected initial SWR readings: SWR minimum location: 140–155 MHz range (ground proximity shifts the measurement) SWR at minimum: 1.1–2.5:1 If SWR minimum is below 140 MHz: Radiating section too long — trim the top. Cut 1 inch from the top of the radiating section (cut the coax top from 0 inches). Re-measure. Trim rate: ~1 inch = ~1–1.5 MHz shift. If SWR minimum is above 155 MHz: Radiating section too short. Verify the radiating section is 26.7 inches. If measured correctly and still too high, the coax VF is higher than 0.66 — extend the radiating section by 2 inches and re-measure. If SWR minimum is above 4:1 everywhere: Check choke coil winding — loose or too few turns. Verify SO-239 connections at feedpoint. Confirm center and braid are not shorted at top.
6

Insert Active Assembly into PVC Housing

Once SWR is confirmed acceptable on the bare antenna, insert the active coax assembly into the PVC housing tube. The housing provides weatherproofing, UV protection, and a rigid mounting structure:

PVC housing assembly: 1. Cut PVC conduit to 54 inches (covers both the radiating section and the choke coil). 2. Feed the coax from the TOP of the PVC tube, working the coax through until the choke coil is fully inside the PVC. 3. The coil will sit snugly inside the PVC tube — it is slightly smaller than the 3/4-inch PVC inner diameter. Allow the coil to seat naturally. 4. The SO-239 connector should protrude just below the bottom of the PVC tube. 5. Drill a 15/16-inch hole in the bottom of the PVC tube for the SO-239 body to pass through. OR: mount the SO-239 on a small ABS plate that caps the bottom of the PVC tube. 6. Apply RTV silicone around the SO-239 mounting to seal against moisture at the bottom. 7. Cap the top of the PVC with the 3/4-inch end cap. Apply a small amount of PVC cement to secure it. Do NOT cement the coax into the tube — leave it free-floating for field adjustment.
Tip: Before inserting the coax into the PVC, pull a thin nylon cord through the PVC tube first, attach it to the top of the coax, then pull the coax into the tube from the bottom. This fish-tape method is far easier than trying to push flexible coax through a narrow tube.
7

Final SWR Verification at Operating Height

Mount the completed Flower Pot vertically at its operating height. Connect the NanoVNA at the SO-239 feedpoint. Sweep 135–160 MHz:

Final SWR targets at operating height: 144.0 MHz: ~1.5:1 146.0 MHz: ~1.2:1 ← target 148.0 MHz: ~1.6:1 The Flower Pot typically shows a clean, symmetric SWR curve centered on the design frequency. The 2:1 SWR bandwidth is approximately 8–12 MHz — significantly wider than the J-pole or Slim Jim, making the antenna less sensitive to precise tuning and covering all of 144–148 MHz comfortably. If the final SWR minimum has shifted from the initial bare-antenna measurement: PVC housing proximity shifts the resonance approximately 2–5 MHz lower (higher capacitance). This is normal — the antenna is slightly detuned by the PVC jacket's dielectric properties. If shift is excessive (minimum below 140 MHz): Remove the top PVC end cap. Trim 1 inch from the radiating section top (through the open PVC tube end with long-nose pliers). Replace end cap and re-measure. Once SWR is confirmed: weatherproof the SO-239 connection with self-amalgamating tape.
Antenna Gain Build cost Build time Weatherproof Best use
Quarter-wave vertical0 dBd$530 minPoor — radials exposedTemporary/test antenna
J-Pole (copper pipe)~2 dBd$182–3 hrGood — copper weathers wellPermanent fixed installation
Slim Jim (ladder line)~2 dBd$81 hrFair — UV degrades plasticPortable / emergency kit
Flower Pot (this guide)~3 dBd$182 hrExcellent — PVC housingFixed installation, clean appearance
Commercial collinear (e.g., Diamond X50)~4–5 dBd$80–150ExcellentBest performance, no building
6-element 2m Yagi~11 dBd$403–4 hrGood — aluminum/weatherDirectional — weak signal, satellite
Symptom Most likely cause Diagnosis Fix
Very high SWR everywhere — no dip visibleChoke coil too few turns or loose winding; or SO-239 connection faultMeasure at feedpoint with NanoVNA — sweep wide range 100–200 MHzRewrap choke coil tightly with more turns; re-solder SO-239 center and braid connections; verify top end is open (not shorted)
SWR minimum visible but 10+ MHz below targetRadiating section too long; or PVC dielectric loading shifted resonanceNote frequency of minimum SWR; compare to expected 146 MHzTrim top of radiating section 1 inch at a time through open top of PVC; re-measure after each trim
SWR minimum at correct frequency but minimum above 3:1Choke ineffective — common-mode current bypassing chokeAdd 5 ferrite beads to feedline coax immediately below SO-239; if SWR improves, choke is inadequateAdd ferrite beads as supplemental choke; or rewind coil with tighter, more turns
SWR varies when feedline is touched or movedCommon-mode current on feedline — choke not fully effectiveMove feedline while watching SWR — variation confirms issueAdd snap-on ferrite (type 31) to feedline at SO-239; ensure feedline exits horizontally before running vertically
Performance fine at first but degrades over monthsMoisture inside PVC tube condensing on choke or oxidizing connectionsOpen PVC bottom and inspect coil and SO-239 for moisture or corrosionDry thoroughly; apply conformal coating to coil windings; improve SO-239 weatherproofing with RTV
Frequency shift after inserting into PVC housingNormal — PVC dielectric lowers resonant frequency slightlyMeasure SWR in housing; expect 2–5 MHz lower than bare-coax measurementTrim top of radiating section to compensate — trim 1 inch at a time until resonance returns to 146 MHz

Does the Flower Pot really outperform a J-pole?

In NEC modeling and practical measurements, the Flower Pot produces approximately 1 dBd more gain than a well-built J-pole at the same mounting height — roughly 3 dBd vs 2 dBd. This gain comes from the collinear phasing of the choke section below the radiating element. In practice, this 1 dBd difference is barely perceptible on a signal-strength meter — half an S-unit at most. The more meaningful practical difference is the Flower Pot's lower radiation angle and cleaner pattern, which improves repeater range and simplex contacts over flat terrain more than the raw gain number suggests. The choice between Flower Pot and J-pole is more about construction preference and appearance than performance difference — build whichever appeals to you more.

Can I use RG-8X instead of RG-58 for better efficiency?

Yes, but recalculate all section lengths for RG-8X's velocity factor of 0.82. The radiating section becomes 33.1 inches instead of 26.7 inches, and the choke coil section becomes 33.1 inches instead of 26.7 inches. Total active coax increases from 53.4 inches to 66.2 inches. RG-8X has lower loss than RG-58 (which matters for the feedline but is essentially irrelevant for the short antenna sections), and its foam dielectric and larger diameter make it stiffer and more self-supporting inside the PVC housing. The antenna built with RG-8X will be slightly larger overall but electrically superior — a worthwhile upgrade if you have RG-8X available.

How many turns should the choke coil have?

The coil must use exactly the correct LENGTH of coax (26.7 inches for RG-58 at 146 MHz) — the number of turns adjusts to accommodate this length at the chosen diameter. For a 3.5-inch diameter coil, 26.7 inches of coax produces approximately 7–8 turns. For a 4-inch diameter coil, the same length produces about 6–7 turns. The diameter determines turns; the length is fixed. If you use a different diameter, the number of turns changes automatically to use the same coax length — what matters electrically is that 26.7 inches (a half-wavelength in the coax) is wound into the coil, not the number of turns itself.

Can the Flower Pot be built for 70cm?

Yes — scale all section lengths by 146/446 = 0.327. The radiating section becomes 8.7 inches, the choke coil section becomes 8.7 inches of coax (wound into approximately 5 turns at 1.5-inch diameter), and the total active section is 17.4 inches. A 70cm Flower Pot fits inside a 20-inch length of 3/4-inch PVC. The 70cm version is very compact — smaller than a 30cm ruler — and produces excellent gain for its size. At 432–440 MHz the SWR is typically very flat and the antenna covers the full 70cm FM band without adjustment. The 70cm Flower Pot in a short piece of white PVC is nearly invisible when pole-mounted and makes an excellent discreet fixed antenna for 70cm FM operation.

How do I connect the feedline from the shack to the antenna?

The SO-239 at the bottom of the antenna accepts a standard PL-259 from the feedline coax. Run LMR-400 or RG-8X from the radio to the antenna SO-239. Apply self-amalgamating tape over the PL-259/SO-239 junction — two full overlapping spiral layers from below the connector body up over the junction and back down. This weatherproofing is essential for outdoor use — water wicking into the coax braid at the connector increases coax loss at 144 MHz and causes SWR to rise over months. The Flower Pot's PVC housing protects the antenna itself from weather, but the exposed feedline connector at the bottom of the PVC tube needs separate weatherproofing.

Is the Flower Pot suitable as an APRS antenna?

Yes — the Flower Pot is an excellent APRS antenna. APRS operates at 144.390 MHz in North America (144.800 MHz in Europe), well within the antenna's 2:1 SWR bandwidth. The Flower Pot's lower radiation angle and ~3 dBd gain produce a larger APRS coverage footprint than a simple quarter-wave vertical — more digipeater hops covered, more IGate visibility, and better received signal strength from more distant stations. For an iGate installation, the Flower Pot mounted on a rooftop provides substantially better coverage than a vertical with radials at the same height. Many APRS operators use a permanently mounted Flower Pot in a white PVC housing that blends with roofline antenna mounting hardware and requires no maintenance beyond occasional feedpoint weatherproofing renewal.


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