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Solar
SFI 128
SN 73
A 6
K 2 Quiet
X-Ray B6.7
Wind 382.9 km/s
Aurora 2
Updated 05:30 UTC HamQSL · N0NBH
Day 80/40m Fair 30/20m Good 17/15m Good 12/10m Fair
Night 80/40m Good 30/20m Good 17/15m Good 12/10m Poor

Callsign Lookup
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Radio Geek

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Everything posted by Radio Geek

  1. For EME work, the RSPdx is definitely worth the extra cost. The improved dynamic range and lower phase noise make a real difference when you're trying to pull -30 dBm signals out of the noise. I've worked several new grids on 2m EME since upgrading from my old RTL dongle.
  2. Gordon West Extra Class book paired with Ham Radio Prep app worked great for me. Actually try to understand what you're reading rather than just memorizing - too many operators just memorize and it shows on the air.
  3. The frequency shown on your radio is actually the carrier frequency, and for SSB the sideband signal can extend another 2.5 to 6 kHz up or down depending on whether you're using USB or LSB. Not all transmitters are calibrated perfectly, and some may drift off frequency during transmission due to temperature changes as the radio warms up. Always leave some margin!
  4. Yes, new sequential calls are assigned from the pool, usually 2x3 format. The FCC issues the next never-before-assigned callsign in alphabetical order from your call district. Most new Techs/Generals do get K-prefix calls currently.
  5. Focus on the exceptions rather than trying to memorize everything. The bands Generals don't have full access to are 80, 40, 20, and 15 - memorize those specific frequency ranges. 160, 60, 30, 17, 12, and 10 meters are the bands that General class holders get all amateur frequency privileges. Much easier than trying to remember everything!
  6. Don't overthink it! I started with a simple MFJ paddle 15 years ago and it served me well through 25 WPM. Most modern transceivers have keyer electronics built-in, so you just need the paddle. Focus on something with good contact spacing adjustment and decent weight so it doesn't slide around.
  7. I went through this evaluation last year and it's really not that complicated. The actual requirements are not nearly as onerous as they sound - most hams will not have difficulty meeting the requirements and are already in compliance with maximum permissible exposure levels. The ARRL website has some good calculators and tables that make the process pretty straightforward.
  8. I run three clusters simultaneously during contests - DX Summit for historical data, DXWatch with real-time spot filtering and customizable views, and QRZ for the integrated callsign lookups. Each has different strengths and spot sources, so redundancy helps catch everything.
  9. Just upgraded to General and starting to explore HF bands. I keep hearing about staying away from band edges but I'm confused about the technical reasons. What exactly happens if I transmit too close to the edge? Are there specific frequencies I should completely avoid as a new General class operator? Also, I notice my radio shows different frequencies for LSB vs USB - how do I calculate where my actual signal lands? Any practical tips for staying legal while making the most of our allocations would be appreciated!
  10. the registration thing is automatic, first successful connection registers you so thats not the issue. the timeout problem though — check your Vara config, specifically the bandwidth setting. a lot of people run into this because theyre trying to connect in 2300hz wide mode but the gateway only supports 500hz or vice versa. try dropping down to 500hz and see if you get further along in the handshake. also what frequency are you actually connecting on, like is it pulling the channel from the RMS list or are you manually entering it? sometimes the RMS list has stale data and the gateway moved or went offline. also 25 feet for an EFHW on 40m isnt great but it shouldnt be killing you completely. more likely a software or timing issue than rf.
  11. I kept my sequential call (similar to yours) for 15 years before going vanity. Honestly wish I'd done it sooner - having a call that means something to you does make a difference. You can list up to 25 choices in order of preference to increase your chances.
  12. For SOTA, ultra-lightweight is essential - consider the Elecraft KX2 or Mountain Topper for minimal weight. I've done successful activations with just KX2, whip antenna, and small LiFePO4 battery. Total weight under 3 pounds.
  13. In contests, speed matters but accuracy matters more. Operators use the phonetic alphabet to exchange call signs, signal reports, and locations. This ensures clear and effective communication, especially when dealing with high volume contacts. Practice until it's reflexive.
  14. i had the same confusion when i upgraded, the chart in the back of the gordon west book was actually clearer to me than the official FCC version honestly. one thing that tripped me up is that the frequencies listed are like the carrier or suppressed carrier point not where the audio ends up, so on LSB you're actually going DOWN in frequency from where you set the dial which means you need a little buffer near the bottom edges of your allocation. my elmer drilled that into me pretty hard after i almost goofed up near the tech/general boundary on 40m
  15. QRA64 activity on 2-meter EME is becoming significant, especially on weekends, but Q65 is definitely the way to go for new EME operators. The averaging capability makes weak signal work much more forgiving. Look for established EME stations to help guide you through your first contacts - many will coordinate schedules via the Moon-Net reflector.
  16. I've read about the difference between iambic mode A (completes current element when paddles released) vs mode B (sends additional opposite element when paddles released) but I'm struggling to understand when this really makes a practical difference. For example, when sending 'C' (-.-.), in mode A you squeeze both paddles and release after the last dit, but in mode B you must release after the second dash. Are there specific letters or situations where one mode clearly works better? Most operators seem to prefer mode B - why is that?
  17. I've seen similar issues but found that adjusting the IF and baseband gain settings in gr-osmosdr can help compensate. Try bumping the IF gain to 40 and see if that helps at 2.4 GHz. Also make sure your GNU Radio sample rate matches what you're expecting - mismatched rates can cause weird power variations.
  18. yeah i caught some of that on tuesday too, i was on my lunch break and just had the radio on in the background and heard a pile-up forming around 28.490 or so. managed to sneak in and work a CT1 station which was a new one for me on that band. honestly 10m is one of those bands that when its open its just magic, theres nothing quite like running low power and getting out that far. on the firmware thing, i updated mine about a week ago and it went totally fine, took maybe 10 minutes and the radio came back up no problem. the waterfall does look slightly different but nothing dramatic. id say go for it, just make sure youre on a stable power supply and dont interrupt it obviously.
  19. Good question! As ARRL Lab Manager Ed Hare noted, "The sky is not falling here. The major aspects of the rules will not impose major new burdens on the Amateur Radio Service". You don't file paperwork with the FCC - you just need to perform your own evaluation. Under revised 97.13(c)(1), you can evaluate household members using occupational/controlled exposure limits if you provide appropriate training, while non-household persons must be evaluated using general population limits per OET Bulletin 65 Supplement B.
  20. Don't monopolize the repeater - if others are turning off their radios because they can hardly get a word in, something's wrong. Good repeater citizenship means being aware of others wanting to use the frequency too.
  21. the EU2200i is actually pretty clean, honda did a good job with the inverter side of it. ive run my IC-7300 directly off one with just a West Mountain RigRunner in between and never had any noise issues, no weird birdies, nothing. that said i do keep a good quality DC power cable with ferrites on it just out of habit. if you're really worried you can throw a battery in the circuit and charge it with the genny - the battery acts as a big filter essentially and you get the runtime benefit too. thats actually what i do for marathon events, run the genny to a smart charger keeping the lifepo4 topped off and pull from the battery. means if the genny has to cycle down or someone needs to refuel theres no interruption to the station. on the mast thing - seriously dont underestimate guying at hilltop sites. i use a surplus fiberglass pushup mast and i guy it at two levels with paracord and tent stakes, three directions minimum. 20mph isnt even that bad honestly, ive had masts come down in less if the stakes were in soft ground. get yourself some of those big screw-in ground anchors, they're worth the few bucks and they pull out way easier than stakes when you're breaking down in the dark
  22. From 50 years of operating: Some words are 'harder' to say - I typically use 'sugar' instead of 'sierra'. That's just one of those foibles, and in most cases, not really a 'biggy'. The key is consistency and clarity, especially when conditions are marginal.
  23. Check if your receiver volume is set high enough so that the DCD lamp lights whenever there is received data, and verify proper decoding by observing if error-free packets are displayed. Often audio level issues cause this exact symptom.
  24. nice work getting it up. i did something similar for my first antenna, also inverted-v, also no balun, worked for a long time. eventually water got into my feedpoint because i didnt tape it well enough and i lost one of the solder joints inside the plastic housing. just something to think about with waterproofing, the self amalgamating tape is good but make sure you stretched it properly when you applied it or it doesnt actually seal that great. EU on 40m at 75w is pretty solid for a homebrew dipole, you're doing something right
  25. To function properly, your antenna mount needs to be grounded to your vehicle's metallic chassis - otherwise you'll get sky-high SWR. Even though you say you have good contact, I'd verify with a multimeter from the mount to a known good ground.

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