Everything posted by Emily Davis71
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coax run length killing my signal on 2m? or is it the antenna itself
honestly the connector at the antenna end is almost always the culprit when this kind of thing happens. water wicks into a PL-259 real slow and by the time you notice it the center pin is basically green inside. pull it down and just cut an inch or two off the coax before you re-terminate, usually fixes it. LMR-400 holds up pretty well but the connectors are the weak point especially if whoever assembled it didnt seal it properly with self-amalgamating tape. the x50a itself is pretty robust, ive had one going about 8 years with no issues, the radiating elements arent really going to degrade on their own unless something physically damaged them. check the connector first before you assume the antenna is shot. also worth doing a quick visual on the mast clamp to make sure the antenna didnt shift and mess up the ground connection somehow.
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when do you actually check in to a net vs just listen in?
ha, yeah nets can feel a little intimidating at first but honestly you're overthinking it a little — which is completely normal. checking in even with nothing to pass is totally fine and actually kind of the whole point. net control wants to know who's out there and that your equipment is working. "nothing to pass" or "no traffic" is a perfectly valid check-in, don't let that stop you. as for late check-ins, most net controls will leave a window at the end specifically for that. something like "any late check-ins or stations not heard?" — that's your moment. if you miss it just wait for the next opportunity or honestly you can just tail-end the net control between check-ins, say something like "KD9XYZ late check-in" and they'll work you in. most nets are pretty relaxed about it especially a local 2m club net. just listen for a few seconds before keying up to make sure nobody else is already talking, you know how that goes.
- finally mounted my 2m/70cm radio in the truck but getting weird SWR readings
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finally caught a 10m opening yesterday and now im hooked on watching solar flux
so i've been licensed for about two years now and mostly just hang around 40m and 2m since conditions on the higher bands always seemed dead whenever i checked. well yesterday afternoon i just happened to spin the dial up to 10m out of curiosity and the band was absolutely alive — i worked 4 stations in South America and one in Spain before it faded out maybe 45 minutes later. never experienced anything like it on HF before honestly. now im kind of obsessed with figuring out when these openings happen. been reading about solar flux index and the K index and all that but its a lot to take in. like is there a rule of thumb for what SFI number means 10m might be worth checking? i saw it was around 180 yesterday which from what i can tell is pretty good but i dont really have a baseline for what counts as decent vs exceptional. also does the time of day matter a lot or is it more about the solar flux? appreciate any help, still feeling my way around HF
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finally putting together a proper go-kit, what am I missing?
the laminated card thing is huge and honestly thats the kind of stuff that separates a real go-kit from just a pile of radio gear in a box. i'd also add — coax adapters. every single adapter you think you wont need, pack it. i cant tell you how many times i've shown up somewhere and the connector situation was completely different than expected. PL-259 to BNC, BNC to SMA, whatever. just throw a little ziploc bag of adapters in there and forget about it until you desperately need one. on the two case vs one case thing, i run two and i love it. radio case is lighter so i can grab just that if i'm going somewhere that already has power. makes logistics way easier when you're hauling stuff into a served agency or an EOC. one more thing people sleep on — a small notebook and a couple pencils. not pens, pencils. when its cold or wet pens are useless and you will be writing down traffic or logging contacts the old fashioned way at some point if things get bad enough. low tech backups matter.
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thinking about going for the extra but not sure if the theory is worth it for what I actually do
so ive been a general for about 3 years now and honestly i get by fine with the privileges i have. mostly do HF, some 40m and 20m SSB, occasionally dip into digital. a buddy at the club keeps bugging me to just go ahead and get the extra but when i looked at the question pool i kind of froze up. like there is a LOT of stuff in there about filter theory and transmission lines and impedance matching that i honestly never think about day to day. my question i guess is... is it worth grinding through all that theory just to get the extra band segments? i know the cw requirement got dropped a while back so thats not the issue. its more like, do people actually use or understand all that stuff after they pass or is it just memorize and forget. also how hard is it really compared to general. im not dumb but i was never great at math either so the formulas worry me
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first POTA activation went way better than expected, few questions though
so i finally did my first activation last weekend at a state park about 45 minutes from my house, K-4892 if anyone's curious. ive been hunting POTA contacts for a few months now and kept telling myself id get out and actually activate one of these days and i just went for it. threw the KX2 in a backpack with my end fed and a cheap tripod thing from amazon and just went. honestly was not expecting it to go as smooth as it did. got 12 contacts in maybe 40 minutes on 40m, couple on 20m too. qualified the park which felt pretty good. but i have some questions that maybe someone who's done more of these can answer. first, do you actually need to announce on the POTA spotting network before you go out or can you just show up and start calling? i kinda just started calling CQ POTA and people found me eventually but it seemed slow at first. also, whats the deal with two-fer activations? ive seen people mention their park is also a national forest or something and counts as two references at once. how do you know if your park qualifies for that? anyway it was a blast and im definitely going back, probably try a different park next time.
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finally trying to learn CW properly, keyer questions
im kind of in the same boat as you, been at it for about 4 months and just broke through 15wpm last week which felt like a huge deal honestly. the plateau around 10 is real, i spent like 3 weeks stuck there what helped me was switching to copying actual QSOs off the air instead of just the trainer. even if i could only get maybe half the words it made it feel more like real operating and less like homework. there are some websdr frequencies that have pretty steady CW activity if you dont want to transmit yet also just a heads up on the keyer thing, my radio has a built in one and it works fine for now. im using a cheapo paddle and it does the job. maybe start there before dropping money on anything fancy
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thinking about getting my ham license, where do i even start
so ive been interested in ham radio for a while now, my neighbor has a big antenna setup and we got talking and he said i should just go get my ticket. i looked online and theres like three different license levels and i honestly have no idea which one to go for first or what the difference is between them. do i have to learn morse code? i heard something about that. also is the test hard, im not great at memorizing stuff and some of the practice questions i found looked pretty technical. just looking for some kind of starting point i guess, any advice would be appreciated
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SO2R worth the hassle for casual contesters or is it overkill
honestly the mental overhead is the real bottleneck and most people underestimate it. i ran SO1R for probably six or seven years and thought i was pretty efficient, then tried SO2R with a borrowed radio during sweepstakes and it was humbling. like yeah technically you can be doing two things at once but if your brain isnt trained for it you end up doing both things badly instead of one thing well the station setup stuff is solvable with enough money or enough time on hamlib and an antenna switch like the DX Doubler or homebrew relay box. the interstation interference thing is real but manageable if your antennas have decent isolation and you're not trying to run two bands that are harmonically related at the same time. 40 and 15 is a painful combination, 20 and 40 is usually more forgiving depending on your filter situation what actually helped me was starting by just using the second radio passively — like S&P only on radio 2 while running on radio 1, not trying to run both simultaneously. build up the muscle memory before you try to juggle full runs on two radios. your scores will improve noticeably even with that half-SO2R approach, maybe 15-20% depending on conditions and contest
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finally putting together a go-kit, what am i missing?
so ive been putting this off for way too long and after the ice storm last month that knocked out power for 3 days i figured i really need to get serious about a proper go-kit. right now i have my FT-857D and a power pole distribution block and a couple of 12ah LiFePO4 batteries from bioenno that i use for portable ops anyway, so thats kind of a starting point i guess. what i threw in a pelican case so far: the radio obviously, a thin little logging notebook and some pens, my tech manual, a small SWR meter, a handful of connectors and adapters, coax jumpers in a few lengths, my ID and license copy, and a USB battery bank for charging the handheld. also got a sotabeams linked dipole stuffed in a bag that fits in the side pocket. but i feel like im still missing stuff and i cant figure out what. like is there a checklist somewhere that ARRL or somebody put together or do most people just kind of figure it out from experience. the antenna situation also bugs me — the linked dipole is great for HF but for local emcomm nets i should probably have something more VHF/UHF ready. im in a suburban area so usually theres a local repeater within reach but if infrastructure is down who knows. anyone been through this process and can tell me what they wish theyd packed that first time they actually needed the kit?
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confused about vanity callsigns vs just waiting for sequential
AE7Q dot com is your best friend for this stuff, seriously bookmark it. you can search available calls, see upcoming ones, check what class of license you need for a particular format. i spent way too long on that site when i was hunting for a vanity call after i upgraded to Extra lol. ended up getting a 2x2 with a decent suffix which im happy with, the 2x1s i wanted were all taken or had a bunch of people applying for them and i didnt want to gamble on it. one thing worth knowing is you can apply for up to 25 callsigns in one application ranked by preference so put your absolute favorites first obviously. and dont stress too much if you dont get your first choice, you can always apply again. the fee thing is real btw, just factor it in.
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dipole vs vertical for 40m — am i overthinking this
honest answer — 25 feet on 40m is pretty low, you're probably getting more high angle radiation than you want for DX, which means it's working great for regional stuff but the low angle stuff is suffering. getting it up to 40 feet would make a noticeable difference before you throw money at anything else. half wavelength at 40m is roughly 66 feet so the higher you can get it the better, even going from 25 to 35 makes a measurable change. as for the vertical thing your buddy isn't wrong about the low angle advantage but he's glossing over the ground loss issue. a vertical with a crappy radial system can actually perform worse than a mediocre dipole. ive seen guys put up a nice vertical, lay down like 4 radials and then wonder why it sounds awful. you really want at minimum 16-20 radials to get useful efficiency and even then elevated radials can help a lot if you can manage it. given your yard situation i'd honestly try to get the dipole up higher first, it's free and you already have it.
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struggling with my keyer timing, sending sounds like garbage
so ive been at this for a few months now and my sending is just... not great. im using a cheap paddle i picked up off ebay and a MFJ keyer, the 494 i think. i set the speed to around 15 wpm because thats where i feel comfortable copying but my dits and dahs sound all mushy to me when i play back recordings. like the ratio just seems off even though i havent touched the weight setting. i dont know if its the paddle itself or if im just squeezing it wrong. my elmer back in the day told me to just practice practice practice but im starting to wonder if the paddle tension is the issue. ive messed with the gap adjustment a little but honestly i dont really know what im doing there. anyone gone through something like this and figured it out?
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confused about what i can and cant transmit on my tech license
i was in the same boat when i first got licensed, part 97 is genuinely hard to read if youre not used to legal-style documents. one thing that helped me was arrl has a summary version thats a lot more readable than the actual cfr text. not a replacement for reading the real thing eventually but good for getting the general picture first. the content rules are honestly pretty common sense once you see them laid out plainly, its more about the technical stuff like emission types and frequency privileges where it gets complicated for techs
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confused about which HT to get as my first radio
Honestly the advice you're getting pulling in two directions makes sense because both sides have a point. The cheap Baofengs like the UV-5R work fine for hitting repeaters and doing simplex, and plenty of people including myself started on them without any real problems. The programming can be a headache and the menu system is kind of a nightmare at first but you figure it out. If your main goal is just getting on the air and talking to your brother and checking into a local net, a UV-5R gets you there for like $25 and you can always upgrade later once you know what you actually want. That said if you have $100 to spend I'd probably look at the Yaesu FT-65 or the Wouxun KG-UV9D. They're in that mid range where the build quality is noticeably better, the audio is clearer on receive, and programming is less of a headache. Dual band is worth it just because most active repeaters in most areas are on 2m but some are on 70cm and you dont want to miss out. The FT-60 is a solid radio but its a bit older and doesn't do a lot of things newer cheap radios do, though its built like a tank and has great receive. skip the TH-D74 for now, that's a digital APRS radio and while its incredible it's a different category entirely. start simple.
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ran our first ARES tabletop exercise last weekend — some thoughts
this is really good to read actually, im fairly new to ARES (just joined a few months ago) and honestly hadnt thought much about the HF fallback side of things. i have my general class but my HF setup at home is pretty basic and i dont use it a ton. kind of motivates me to actually get on the air more regularly instead of just having the gear sit there. what software or tools were you using to track things during the sim? i've heard some groups use ICS forms and others use stuff like Winlink or even just paper logs. wondering what worked and what felt clunky.
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SO2R worth it for casual contesters or just overkill?
honest answer — it depends a lot on your antennas more than your radios. i ran SO2R for two years with a pair of K3s and thought i was doing it right, but i was losing half my brain cycles to RF getting into everything because my antennas were only like 40ft apart. the interstation interference is the real enemy, not the operating technique itself. the mental load thing is real too. first few contests you try it youre gonna cost yourself QSOs because youre fumbling between radios and missing calls on both. i'd say start by just monitoring the second radio passively, like tune it to a mult you need and just glance at it when your run frequency goes quiet. dont try to actually work two pileups simultaneously until you've got the monitoring habit down cold. took me probably 4 or 5 contests before it started feeling natural and my rate actually went up instead of down. for filters you really want bandpass filters on both radios, the Array Solutions or 4O3A ones are what most serious contesters use. without them youre just asking for problems especially if youre on 40 and 15 at the same time.
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RemoteHams SDR setup with internet linking — anyone actually got this working reliably?
yeah the sync issue you're describing is pretty classic with that kind of hybrid setup. the problem is the RTL-SDR stream and your audio path from the 7300 are going through completely different pipelines — the SDR is going through one set of buffers and the rig audio is going through another and they have no shared clock reference so they drift. its not really a RemoteHams problem per se, its just what happens when you bolt two unrelated streams together over a WAN connection. honestly if you already have the 7300 i would just use its built-in USB audio and the IQ output you can get from it for the panadapter. the scope output on the 7300 over RemoteHams isnt perfect but at least everything is coming from one source so the timing is more coherent. ive been running a remote IC-7610 setup for about two years and went through the same headaches you're describing before i stopped trying to use a separate SDR and just leaned on what the radio already gives you. the latency is still there obviously but at least its consistent latency which you can mentally compensate for. the Anan path is another option but thats a whole different rabbit hole and youll spend six months learning that software before you're actually on the air reliably.
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New to repeaters, confused about the tone thing and when to talk
Oh man dont feel too bad about the kerchunk thing, pretty much everyone does it at least once. The trick is if you want to test if youre hitting a repeater, just say your callsign real quick — like literally just say it once. That way you're being transparent about it and nobody gets annoyed. Some repeaters even have a courtesy tone that beeps back at you so you know you made it. On the CTCSS question — that tone goes on your transmit side only, you generally dont need to set a receive tone (sometimes called DCS or CTCSS squelch) unless you specifically want to filter out other traffic on your end. The repeater just needs to hear your tone to open up. As for getting on, just wait for a pause and say your callsign and say youre monitoring or looking to make a contact. On a lot of local machines people are pretty relaxed about it, someone will usually come back to you. CQ is a little unusual on a repeater but its not some huge crime or anything, you'll just get some odd looks... well, odd radio silence haha.
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ran my first ARES drill last weekend and wow did things go sideways fast
yeah the antenna thing gets everybody at least once. i did my first deployment during a real winter storm a few years back and brought everything except a way to actually power my radio for more than two hours, had a great battery but the wrong connector. now i have a whole checklist laminated on the inside of my go bag lid, feels a little obsessive but it saved me twice already. the logging piece is huge too. a lot of groups have moved to winlink or some kind of digital logging for exactly that reason but you still need to be ready when the laptop dies or the wifi is gone or whatever. i actually practiced writing ICS-213 forms with my non-dominant hand once just to see if i could do it under stress, spoiler: barely. the drills are honestly where you learn way more than any licensing exam could ever teach you about what actually matters when things go sideways.
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finally got the 857D mounted in the truck but now i have an annoying whine
i had this same issue with my 2m radio last year and it drove me crazy for weeks lol. turned out my power cable was running right next to the ignition wiring harness under the dash and it was picking up noise from there. tried moving the cable to the other side and it helped a lot. might be worth checking how you routed everything even if the ground ends up being the main fix
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K3NG Arduino Rotator Controller vs Commercial Units - Real World Experience
Been running K3NG controller for 3 years on my G-5500. The updated code with slow startup and brake operation works perfectly, configured for 450-degree rotation capability. Saved $500+ over commercial solutions.
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trying to pick my first HT, totally lost on features
so ive been licensed for about three weeks now (tech class) and everyone keeps telling me to just get a baofeng to start and thats fine but then i went down a rabbit hole and now im looking at the yaesu ft-60 and the kenwood th-d74 and honestly i dont even know what half the features mean anymore like what is APRS and do i actually need it as a beginner? and dual band vs tribander, does that even matter if youre mostly just gonna be hitting local repeaters? i live in a mid sized city so i dont think range is gonna be a huge issue but i dont know my budget is probably around 150 bucks maybe a bit more if something is really worth it. just want something that wont frustrate me to death trying to program it and that will actually work reliably. the kenwood is obviously way out of my price range just been reading about it
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struggling to push past 13wpm — any tips for getting to 20?
so ive been at this for about 8 months now and hit a wall i cant seem to get through. started learning CW back in the spring, got to about 13wpm pretty comfortably and now everything just kinda stalled out. i can copy most letters fine but when the speed goes up my brain just stops and i start trying to sound out individual dits and dahs again instead of hearing the whole character as one sound, which i know is the wrong approach but its hard to break the habit once the speed goes up. i use the G4FON trainer mostly, been doing about 20 minutes a day. some days i do the LCWO site too. the problem is i feel like ive been at 13-14wpm for like 2 months and i genuinely dont know if im doing something wrong or if this is just a normal plateau and i need to push through it somehow. did anyone else hit this same wall around this speed? how did you get past it? i dont want to give up on 20wpm, thats always been the goal for me since i started.